Munter hitch
Munter hitch (also known as HMS) is an essential knot used for belaying in occasions when a belay device cannot be used. It is also used in advanced rope techniques (for example rescue techniques).
| Munter hitch | |
|---|---|
 | |
| Other names | HMS, HMS knot, munter |
| Use(s) | Belaying, rescue techniques |
| Pros | Fast, simple, just HMS carabiner needed, works in any angle, easy to lower the second climber |
| Cons | Rope abrasion, rope tangling, no braking assist |
| Category | Hitch |
Tying
Tying for an anchor belay (easy method)
This method is very robust and suitable for learning how to tie the hitch.
Make a loop (1) 
Pull a thumb through the loop (2) 
Place another strand over your thumb and close the hand with your index finger (3) 
Pull the carabiner through the rope exactly in the path of your thumb (4) 
Screw the safety-lock (5) 
Inspect that everything is correct (6) and as a final check, pull the break-strand (7) to test if the Munter hitch flips into another Munter
Tying for a harness belay
Steps description: start with a rope through the carabiner which is attached to your harness. Take a bight of a rope (1) and create a loop (2). Then you open the carabiner gate (3) and seat the loop into the carabiner (4). Screw the safety-lock (5), inspect that everything is correct (6) and pull the break-strand (7) to test if the munter hitch flips into another munter as a final check.
Belaying
Always hold the break strand! Belaying with Munter hitch is reliable and reasonably comfortable. Munter works smoothly when not loaded, yet giving friction to catch a fall once tensioned. It blocks regardless of the angle of the breaking hand. The main reason why it is used less often is that if the rope is pulled through the hitch under tension, Munter tends to tangle the rope.
Belaying risks
When belaying with Munter hitch, aside from always holding the break strand, belayer should pay attention to keep fingers at a respectful distance from the knot, otherwise he might risk jamming his fingers into the belay, which might result in a severe finger injury. Belayer should also ensure to tie the Munter in a way that it does not interfere with the carabiner gate/lock. Otherwise the rope friction might unlock, and maybe even open the gate of the carabiner.
Tie-off - Mule overhand
This is the most recognized method to tie-off the mule overhand to set your hands free. The tie-off consists from a slipknot and then overhand knot, both of which are tied around the life end of the rope. As both of these knots are tied with a bight and rope is also pulled through the carabiner, it takes practice to be able to securely inspect the tie-off.
Steps description: If the knot is not in the correct position, give a bit of a slack first to flip the knot (1). Next create a loop (2) and move it behind the life end (3). Pull a bight of the belay end through the loop (4) effectively making a slipknot around the life end of the rope. Now grab the bight with a hand (5) and simultaneously take out slack out of the system while releasing the other hand (6), note that the break strand is always hold during this step. Pull the bight through the carabiner (7), increase is size if necessary for the next steps. Secure the tie-off by making an overhand around the life end of the rope (8,9).
Alternative tying methods
Single hand method
Fast method using single hand move.
Steps description: Start with a rope through a carabiner. Grab the rope strand closer to you behind the other strand. Pull the rope strand closer to you below the other strand (1) and up, open the gate (2) and pull the rope through the gate from the front to back and sit the rope into the carabiner (3), the gate closes itself automatically. Screw the safety-lock (4) and visually inspect that everything is correct (5) and pull the break-strand (6) to see if the munter hitch flips into another munter hitch as a final check.
Detailed method
Step-by-step, very detailed description.
File:Munter tie step1.png File:Munter tie step2.png File:Munter tie step3.png File:Munter tie step4.png File:Munter tie step5.png File:Munter tie step6.png File:Munter tie step7.png
Steps description: Start with a rope through a carabiner. Pull the rope strand closer to you below the other strand (1), open the gate (2) and pull the rope through the gate from the front (3). sit the rope into the carabiner (4) and close the gate (5). Screw the safety-lock (6), visually inspect that everything is correct (7) and pull the break-strand (8) to see if the munter hitch flips into another munter hitch as a final check (9).