Figure eight

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Figure-eight knot is the most used knots for tying-in and one of two generally accepted knots for tying-in at the end of the rope (the second being the re-threaded bowline).

Figure eight
Other namesFigure 8, eight
Use(s)Tying onto the rope end/middle, end-knot (single strand, marking)
ProsReliable, easy to inspect, low decrease of the rope strength
ConsTedious to untie after a lead fall in some cases, figure-eight bend is prone to rolling
CategoryKnot
Strength~60-80% in normal (non-ring) load. Differs by author, type of measurement and rope[1]

Tying

Follow-through (end)

TODO

Steps description: TODO

On a bight (middle)

TODO

Steps description: TODO

Preventing from getting stuck

TODO

Rolling

TODO

References

  1. EDELRID Team (20 October 2020). "Strength reduction of textile materials by knots". edelrid. EDELRID GmbH & Co. KG. Retrieved 10 August 2025.