Lowering a lead climber from an anchor

This page explains how to safely lower a lead climber who has reached an anchor, while cleaning-up the anchor. An alternative is to abseil from an anchor. Only cases with a sport anchor are described. For traditional routes, you either have to leave some gear behind, or where appropriate and reasonably safe, use for example an equivocation hitch.

Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor

TODO

Lowering from bolts with maillons

TODO

Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring

This method is forbidden by associations in some countries and places (traditional sandstone routes with rings) due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion. This method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.