Anchor: Difference between revisions
Created page with "Anchor is a well-secured place from which climbers can belay and take rest between the pitches. == Pre-built anchors == TODO == Buidling sport anchors == TODO == Building trad anchors == TODO" |
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Anchor is a well-secured place | |||
{{Infobox gear | |||
| other_names = Belay station | |||
| uses = [[Singlepitch|Singlepitching]], multipitching, trad climbing, mountaineering | |||
}} | |||
{{messagebox_checkstate}} | |||
Anchor is a well-secured place where climbers can take rest between the pitches and from which they can belay. | |||
== Pre-built anchors == | == Pre-built anchors == | ||
With a pre-built anchors, the anchor itself is already built, so the only thing needed is to add your master carabiner to have space for instance for setup of a toprope, or for belaying of a second climber. | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery|130px | |||
|File:stand_prebuilt_step1.png | |||
|Clip an HMS carabiner (1) | |||
|File:stand_prebuilt_step2.png | |||
|Rotate the carabiner into gravity-loaded position (2) and screw its gate lock (3) | |||
|File:stand_prebuilt_step3.png | |||
|Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate lock (5) | |||
|File:stand_prebuilt_step4.png | |||
|Inspect the gates of the carabiners (6) | |||
}} | |||
== Buidling sport anchors == | == Buidling sport anchors == | ||
If the anchor bolts are not connected, you must link them together to have redundancy for a case that one of the bolts would fail. | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery | |||
|150px | |||
|File:stand_step1.png | |||
|Clip an HMS carabiner with an 120 cm sling (1) | |||
|File:stand_step2.png | |||
|Rotate the carabiner into gravity-loaded position (2) and screw its gate lock (3) | |||
|File:stand_step3.png | |||
|Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate lock (5) | |||
|File:stand_step4.png | |||
|Clip a carabiner into the second bolt (6) | |||
|File:stand_step5.png | |||
|And gravity load it (7) | |||
|File:stand_step6.png | |||
|Tie a [[clove hitch]] on the second carabiner using both strings (8) | |||
|File:stand_step7.png | |||
|Hang the sling end onto the second carabiner (9) and screw its gate lock (10) | |||
|File:stand_step8.png | |||
|Inspect the sling (11) | |||
|File:stand_step9.png | |||
|And inspect the gates (12) | |||
}} | |||
=== Risks === | |||
TODO | TODO | ||
== Building trad anchors == | == Building trad anchors == | ||
TODO | TODO | ||
Latest revision as of 19:15, 1 November 2025
| Anchor | |
|---|---|
| Other names | Belay station |
| Use(s) | Singlepitching, multipitching, trad climbing, mountaineering |
 | Review state This page has not been reviewed yet (review state explanation). |
Anchor is a well-secured place where climbers can take rest between the pitches and from which they can belay.
Pre-built anchors
With a pre-built anchors, the anchor itself is already built, so the only thing needed is to add your master carabiner to have space for instance for setup of a toprope, or for belaying of a second climber.
Clip an HMS carabiner (1) 
Rotate the carabiner into gravity-loaded position (2) and screw its gate lock (3) 
Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate lock (5) 
Inspect the gates of the carabiners (6)
Buidling sport anchors
If the anchor bolts are not connected, you must link them together to have redundancy for a case that one of the bolts would fail.
Clip an HMS carabiner with an 120 cm sling (1) 
Rotate the carabiner into gravity-loaded position (2) and screw its gate lock (3) 
Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate lock (5) 
Clip a carabiner into the second bolt (6) 
And gravity load it (7) 
Tie a clove hitch on the second carabiner using both strings (8) 
Hang the sling end onto the second carabiner (9) and screw its gate lock (10) 
Inspect the sling (11) 
And inspect the gates (12)
Risks
TODO
Building trad anchors
TODO