Anchor

Anchor
Other names	Belay station
Use(s)	Singlepitching, multipitching, trad climbing, mountaineering

Anchor is a well-secured place where climbers can take rest between the pitches and from which they can belay.

Pre-built anchors

With a pre-built anchors, the anchor itself is already built, so the only thing needed is to add your master carabiner to have space for instance for setup of a toprope, or for belaying of a second climber.

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  Clip an HMS carabiner (1)

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  Rotate the carabiner into gravity-loaded position (2) and screw its gate lock (3)

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  Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate lock (5)

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  Inspect the gates of the carabiners (6)

Buidling sport anchors

If the anchor bolts are not connected, you must link them together to have redundancy for a case that one of the bolts would fail.

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  Clip an HMS carabiner with an 120 cm sling (1)

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  Rotate the carabiner into gravity-loaded position (2) and screw its gate lock (3)

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  Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate lock (5)

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  Clip a carabiner into the second bolt (6)

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  And gravity load it (7)

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  Tie a clove hitch on the second carabiner using both strings (8)

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  Hang the sling end onto the second carabiner (9) and screw its gate lock (10)

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  Inspect the sling (11)

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  And inspect the gates (12)

Risks

TODO

Building trad anchors

TODO