Anchor: Difference between revisions
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Anchor is a well-secured place | |||
{{Infobox gear | |||
| other_names = Belay station | |||
| uses = [[Singlepitch|Singlepitching]], multipitching, trad climbing, mountaineering | |||
}} | |||
{{messagebox_checkstate}} | |||
Anchor is a well-secured place where climbers can take rest between the pitches and from which they can belay. | |||
== Pre-built anchors == | == Pre-built anchors == | ||
With a pre-built anchors, the anchor itself is already built, so the only thing needed is to add your master carabiner to have space for instance for setup of a toprope, or for belaying of a second climber. | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery|130px | |||
|File:stand_prebuilt_step1.png | |||
|Clip an HMS carabiner (1) | |||
|File:stand_prebuilt_step2.png | |||
|Rotate the carabiner into gravity-loaded position (2) and screw its gate lock (3) | |||
|File:stand_prebuilt_step3.png | |||
|Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate lock (5) | |||
|File:stand_prebuilt_step4.png | |||
|Inspect the gates of the carabiners (6) | |||
}} | |||
== Buidling sport anchors == | == Buidling sport anchors == | ||
If the anchor bolts are not connected, you must link them together to have redundancy for a case that one of the bolts would fail. | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery | ||
|150px | |150px | ||
|File:stand_step1.png | |File:stand_step1.png | ||
|Clip an HMS carabiner with an | |Clip an HMS carabiner with an 120 cm sling (1) | ||
|File:stand_step2.png | |File:stand_step2.png | ||
| | |Rotate the carabiner into gravity-loaded position (2) and screw its gate lock (3) | ||
|File:stand_step3.png | |File:stand_step3.png | ||
|Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate (5) | |Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate lock (5) | ||
|File:stand_step4.png | |File:stand_step4.png | ||
|Clip a carabiner into the second bolt (6) | |Clip a carabiner into the second bolt (6) | ||
|File:stand_step5.png | |File:stand_step5.png | ||
|And gravity load it (7) | |And gravity load it (7) | ||
|File:stand_step6.png | |File:stand_step6.png | ||
| | |Tie a [[clove hitch]] on the second carabiner using both strings (8) | ||
|File:stand_step7.png | |File:stand_step7.png | ||
|Hang the sling end onto the second carabiner (9) and screw its gate (10) | |Hang the sling end onto the second carabiner (9) and screw its gate lock (10) | ||
|File:stand_step8.png | |File:stand_step8.png | ||
|Inspect the sling (11) | |Inspect the sling (11) | ||
|File:stand_step9.png | |File:stand_step9.png | ||
|And inspect the gates (12) | |And inspect the gates (12) | ||
}} | }} | ||
=== Risks === | === Risks === | ||
TODO | |||
== Building trad anchors == | == Building trad anchors == | ||
TODO | TODO | ||