Anchor: Difference between revisions

(3 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown)

Line 1:

Anchor is a well-secured place ~~from which~~ climbers can ~~belay and~~ take rest between the pitches.

{{Infobox gear

| other_names = Belay station

| uses = [[Singlepitch|Singlepitching]], multipitching, trad climbing, mountaineering

}}

Anchor is a well-secured place where climbers can take rest between the pitches and from which they can belay.

== Pre-built anchors ==

~~TODO~~

With a pre-built anchors, the anchor itself is already built, so the only thing needed is to add your master carabiner to have space for instance for setup of a toprope, or for belaying of a second climber.

{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery|130px

|File:stand_prebuilt_step1.png

|Clip an HMS carabiner (1)

|File:stand_prebuilt_step2.png

|Rotate the carabiner into gravity-loaded position (2) and screw its gate lock (3)

|File:stand_prebuilt_step3.png

|Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate lock (5)

|File:stand_prebuilt_step4.png

|Inspect the gates of the carabiners (6)

}}

== Buidling sport anchors ==

If the anchor bolts are not connected, you must link them together to have redundancy for a case that one of the bolts would fail.

{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery

|150px

|File:stand_step1.png

|Clip an HMS carabiner with an ~~120cm~~ sling (1).

|Clip an HMS carabiner with an 120 cm sling (1)

|File:stand_step2.png

|~~Orient~~ the carabiner ~~so its~~ gravity-loaded (2) and screw its gate (3).

|Rotate the carabiner into gravity-loaded position (2) and screw its gate lock (3)

|File:stand_step3.png

|Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate (5).

|Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate lock (5)

|File:stand_step4.png

|Clip a carabiner into the second bolt (6).

|Clip a carabiner into the second bolt (6)

|File:stand_step5.png

|And gravity load it (7).

|And gravity load it (7)

|File:stand_step6.png

|~~Make~~ a [[clove hitch]] on the second carabiner using both strings (8).

|Tie a [[clove hitch]] on the second carabiner using both strings (8)

|File:stand_step7.png

|Hang the sling end onto the second carabiner (9) and screw its gate (10).

|Hang the sling end onto the second carabiner (9) and screw its gate lock (10)

|File:stand_step8.png

|Inspect the sling (11).

|Inspect the sling (11)

|File:stand_step9.png

|And inspect the gates (12).

|And inspect the gates (12)

}}

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-Anchor is a well-secured place from which climbers can belay and take rest between the pitches.
+{{Infobox gear
+| other_names = Belay station
+| uses = [[Singlepitch|Singlepitching]], multipitching, trad climbing, mountaineering
+}}
+{{messagebox_checkstate}}
+Anchor is a well-secured place where climbers can take rest between the pitches and from which they can belay.
 == Pre-built anchors ==
-TODO
+With a pre-built anchors, the anchor itself is already built, so the only thing needed is to add your master carabiner to have space for instance for setup of a toprope, or for belaying of a second climber.
+{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery|130px
+|File:stand_prebuilt_step1.png
+|Clip an HMS carabiner (1)
+|File:stand_prebuilt_step2.png
+|Rotate the carabiner into gravity-loaded position (2) and screw its gate lock (3)
+|File:stand_prebuilt_step3.png
+|Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate lock (5)
+|File:stand_prebuilt_step4.png
+|Inspect the gates of the carabiners (6)
+}}
 == Buidling sport anchors ==
+If the anchor bolts are not connected, you must link them together to have redundancy for a case that one of the bolts would fail.
 {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery
 |150px
 |File:stand_step1.png
-|Clip an HMS carabiner with an 120cm sling (1).
+|Clip an HMS carabiner with an 120&nbsp;cm sling (1)
 |File:stand_step2.png
-|Orient the carabiner so its gravity-loaded (2) and screw its gate (3).
+|Rotate the carabiner into gravity-loaded position (2) and screw its gate lock (3)
 |File:stand_step3.png
-|Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate (5).
+|Clip your personal anchor (4) and screw its gate lock (5)
 |File:stand_step4.png
-|Clip a carabiner into the second bolt (6).
+|Clip a carabiner into the second bolt (6)
 |File:stand_step5.png
-|And gravity load it (7).
+|And gravity load it (7)
 |File:stand_step6.png
-|Make a [[clove hitch]] on the second carabiner using both strings (8).
+|Tie a [[clove hitch]] on the second carabiner using both strings (8)
 |File:stand_step7.png
-|Hang the sling end onto the second carabiner (9) and screw its gate (10).
+|Hang the sling end onto the second carabiner (9) and screw its gate lock (10)
 |File:stand_step8.png
-|Inspect the sling (11).
+|Inspect the sling (11)
 |File:stand_step9.png
-|And inspect the gates (12).
+|And inspect the gates (12)
 }}