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Lowering a lead climber from an anchor: Difference between revisions

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=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor ===
=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor ===
Steps:
Steps:
* Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in)
* [[#Freeing the rope end|Freeing the rope end]] without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in)
* Threading the rope through the anchor and retying to its end
* [[#Threading the rope through the anchor|Threading the rope through the anchor]] and retying to its end
* Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up
* [[#Cleaning up | Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up]]




==== Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in) ====
==== Freeing the rope end ====
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope by making a temporary tie-in.
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step1.png
 
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths_alt
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step1.png
|200px
|Pull approximately two arm lengths (two meters) of slack (1)
|Person hanging by a sling and rope on a sport anchor in a toprope setup, hand pulling slack through the toprope
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step2.png
|200px
|Tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] (2)
|Tying a figure eight on the slack at the anchor point
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step3.png
|200px
|Clip it to your harness by a safebiner (3)
|Clipping the figure eight on a slack to the harness by a triple action carabiners
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step4.png
|200px
|200px
|Pull approximately two meters of slack (1), tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] on it and clip it to your harness belay loop
|Inspect that both the belay loop and the Figure 8 you tied are clipped into the safebiner and that the Figure 8 properly is tied (4)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step2.png
|Eye inspecting proper binding into the rope by a safebiner with Figure 8
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step5.png
|200px
|200px
|Completely untie the Figure 8 which is directly at your harness (2)
|Completely untie the Figure 8 on the end of the rope (5)
|Arrow pointing to untie the original tie-in point at the end of the rope
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step6.png
|200px
|You have freed the rope end while still being safely tied in
|Person on the anchor tied in with a Figure 8 on a carabiner having a free slack at the end of the rope
}}
}}
Not clear? Go to the [[#Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in) 2|detailed description]].


==== Threading the rope through the anchor and retying to its end ====
==== Threading the rope through the anchor ====
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
Threading the rope through the anchor rappel ring and retying to its end.
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step3.png
 
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths_alt
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step7.png
|200px
|200px
|Pull the loose rope strand through the rappel ring of the anchor (3) and attach it back to your harness by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]]
|Pull the loose end of the rope through the rappel ring (6)
|Arrow suggesting a person on the anchor to pull the slack through the anchor rappel ring
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step8.png
|200px
|And tie in it by a [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|Figure 8]] (7)
|Arrow suggesting to tie in onto the rope end by figure eight
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step9.png
|200px
|You will get lowered on this knot, so inspect that its properly tied and that the loop goes through both of the harness tie-in loops (8)
|Eye inspection of the figure 8 knot made in the previous step
}}
}}
Not clear? Go to the [[#Threading the rope through the anchor and retying to its end 2|detailed description]].


==== Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up ====
==== Cleaning up ====
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up.
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step4.png
 
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths_alt
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step10.png
|200px
|200px
|Remove the carabiner at your harness (4,5), untie the Figure 8 on a bight (6), remove the toprope carabiners (7) and ask your belayer for a block while lifting yourself slightly towards the anchor (8)
|Detach the safebiner (9,10) and untie the Figure 8 on a bight (11), excessive slack will slide out itself (12)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step9.png
|Dismantling of the tie-in through the triple carabiner
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step11.png
|200px
|Remove the two carabiners intended for the toproping (13)
|Removing of toprope carabiners from an anchor point
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step12.png
|200px
|Before removing your personal anchor, ask your belayer for a block (14) in order to test the setup
|Person on the anchor being pulled towards the anchor by a belayer taking out slack
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step13.png
|160px
|160px
|Before committing to the system, check that you really can hang in the rope (your personal anchor should be loose and the rope tight) and visually inspect both the tie in and the threading through the rappel ring (9)
|Inspect both the tie-in (15) and the threading of the rope through the anchor rappel ring (16)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step10.png
|Eye inspection of the threading of the rope and tie in
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step14.png
|160px
|160px
|After you inspected and tested that the setup is safe, you can remove the rest of the gear from the anchor (10)
|Unscrew (17) and clean-up (18) the rest of your gear from the anchor
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step11.png
|Climber on an anchor hanging on a rope tied through the rappel ring removing rest of his gear from the anchor
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step15.png
|160px
|160px
|And you are safe to get lowered (11)
|And get lowered by a belayer (19)
|Person descending from an anchor
}}
}}
Not clear? Go to the [[#Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up 2|detailed description]].


=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method ===
=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method ===
Line 52: Line 94:


{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery
|200px
|260px
|File: lowering_maillons_step1.png
|File: lowering_maillons_step1.png
|Thread the rope through the maillons. Both maillons should be threaded in the same way - either in->out, or out->in
|Thread the rope through the maillons. Both maillons should be threaded in the same way - either in->out, or out->in
Line 65: Line 107:


{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery
|200px
|260px
|File: lowering_bolts_step1.png
|File: lowering_bolts_step1.png
|Thread the rope through the bolts in a way that it wont get easily tangled during lowering.
|Thread the rope through the bolts in a way that it wont get easily tangled during lowering.
|File: lowering_bolts_step2.png
|File: lowering_bolts_step2.png
|Once the bolts are threaded, you continue as in the [[#Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor|method with the rappel ring]] by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]], the rest of the steps is analogous
|Once the bolts are threaded, you continue as in the [[#Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor|method with the rappel ring]] by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]], the rest of the steps is analogous
}}
=== Step by step detailed descriptions ===
==== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description ====
===== Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in) =====
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step1.png
|200px
|Pull approximately two arm lengths (two meters) of slack (1)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step2.png
|200px
|Tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] (2)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step3.png
|200px
|Clip it to your harness belay loop by a carabiner (3) and screw its gate (4)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step4.png
|200px
|Undo the Figure 8 by which you were originally tied-in (5)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step5.png
|200px
|And completely untie it (6)
}}
===== Threading the rope through the anchor and retying to its end =====
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step6.png
|200px
|Pull the loose end of the rope through the rappel ring (7)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step7.png
|200px
|And tie in it by a [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|Figure 8]] (8)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step8.png
|200px
|You will get lowered on this knot, so inspect that its properly tied and that the loop goes through both of the harness tie-in loops (9)
}}
===== Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up =====
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step9.png
|200px
|Unscrew the carabiner (10), detach it from your haness (11) and untie the Figure 8 on a bight (12), excessive extra slack will slide out (13)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step14.png
|200px
|Remove the two carabiners intended for the toproping (14)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step15.png
|200px
|To test the setup, ask belayer for a block (15) before removing your personal anchor
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step16.png
|160px
|Inspect both the tie-in (16) and the threading of the rope through the anchor rappel ring (17)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step18.png
|160px
|Unscrew (18) and clean-up (19) the rest of your gear from the anchor
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step20.png
|160px
|And get lowered (20) by a belayer
}}
}}


=== References ===
=== References ===

Latest revision as of 18:41, 12 November 2025

This method is used for removing gear from a sport anchor, with a subsequent lowering of the lead climber. An alternative is to abseil from an anchor. For routes with no fixed protection at the anchor point (trad), you have either to leave some gear behind, or where it is appropriate and reasonably safe, use for example abseil with an equivocation hitch.

Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor

Steps:


Freeing the rope end

Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope by making a temporary tie-in.

  • Person hanging by a sling and rope on a sport anchor in a toprope setup, hand pulling slack through the toprope
    Pull approximately two arm lengths (two meters) of slack (1)
  • Tying a figure eight on the slack at the anchor point
    Tie a Figure 8 on a bight (2)
  • Clipping the figure eight on a slack to the harness by a triple action carabiners
    Clip it to your harness by a safebiner (3)
  • Eye inspecting proper binding into the rope by a safebiner with Figure 8
    Inspect that both the belay loop and the Figure 8 you tied are clipped into the safebiner and that the Figure 8 properly is tied (4)
  • Arrow pointing to untie the original tie-in point at the end of the rope
    Completely untie the Figure 8 on the end of the rope (5)
  • Person on the anchor tied in with a Figure 8 on a carabiner having a free slack at the end of the rope
    You have freed the rope end while still being safely tied in

Threading the rope through the anchor

Threading the rope through the anchor rappel ring and retying to its end.

  • Arrow suggesting a person on the anchor to pull the slack through the anchor rappel ring
    Pull the loose end of the rope through the rappel ring (6)
  • Arrow suggesting to tie in onto the rope end by figure eight
    And tie in it by a Figure 8 (7)
  • Eye inspection of the figure 8 knot made in the previous step
    You will get lowered on this knot, so inspect that its properly tied and that the loop goes through both of the harness tie-in loops (8)

Cleaning up

Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up.

  • Dismantling of the tie-in through the triple carabiner
    Detach the safebiner (9,10) and untie the Figure 8 on a bight (11), excessive slack will slide out itself (12)
  • Removing of toprope carabiners from an anchor point
    Remove the two carabiners intended for the toproping (13)
  • Person on the anchor being pulled towards the anchor by a belayer taking out slack
    Before removing your personal anchor, ask your belayer for a block (14) in order to test the setup
  • Eye inspection of the threading of the rope and tie in
    Inspect both the tie-in (15) and the threading of the rope through the anchor rappel ring (16)
  • Climber on an anchor hanging on a rope tied through the rappel ring removing rest of his gear from the anchor
    Unscrew (17) and clean-up (18) the rest of your gear from the anchor
  • Person descending from an anchor
    And get lowered by a belayer (19)

Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method

See the separate page with the quick method description.

Lowering from bolts with maillons

Lowering from maillons is analogous to the lowering from a pre-built sport anchor, except that you thread the rope through the maillons instead of the rappel ring. To ensure redundancy, you must thread the rope through both maillons, as there is no chain connecting the bolts. The quick method can be used only if the maillons are big enough, othewise it quickly becomes cumbersome.

  • Thread the rope through the maillons. Both maillons should be threaded in the same way - either in->out, or out->in
  • Once the maillons are threaded, you continue as in the method with the rappel ring by tying in by a Figure 8, the rest of the steps is analogous

Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring

This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places.[1] The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations.[2] In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.

The method is very similar to the method with maillons, only the rope is in this case threaded directly through the bolts.

References

  1. ↑ For example the czech mountaineering association allows abseiling exclusively. For toprope, it explicitly orders to place carabiners into the fixed protection (Article 3, number 4): Výkonný výbor ČHS (June 12, 2020). "Pravidla lezení ve skalních oblastech ČR" (PDF). horosvaz.cz. Český horolezecký svaz. Retrieved 1 November 2025.
  2. ↑ Kublák, Tomáš. "Horní jištění". Horolezeckametodika.cz. HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA. Archived from the original on 5 March 2024. Retrieved 1 November 2025.
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