Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method

This method is used for removing gear from a sport anchor, with a subsequent lowering of the lead climber if the anchor is equipped by a rappel ring, or if the bolts or maillons are big enough. This method have two variations - either you get lowered on a Figure 8 clipped through the carabiner as depicted below, or you re-tie to the end of the rope in similar fashion as described in the article covering general lowering method. If you decide to leave a long slack, be mindful of its placement. Either wrap it around the rope just in front of the Figure 8, or put it over one shoulder, or clip it to your harness. Having a slack around your neck leads to a risk of a potentially fatal injury.

Steps:

• Pulling a bite of the rope through the anchor, and tying into it
• Safety checks, freeing the rope end, cleaning-up

Pulling a bite of the rope through the anchor, and tying into it

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  Grab a bight of the rope and pull approximately two meters of slack through the rappel ring (1)

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  Tie a Figure 8 on a bight on it (2)

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  Clip the Figure 8 to your harness belay loop (3)

Safety checks, freeing the rope end, cleaning-up

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  Inspect the tie-in (4)

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  Completely untie the Figure 8 which is directly at your harness (5)

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  Remove the toprope carabiners (6) and pull the loose rope strand out of the rappel ring (7)

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  To test the system, ask your belayer for a block (8)

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  Before committing to the system, check once more that you are truly hanging in the rope which is threaded through the rappel ring (9,10)

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  After you inspected and tested that the setup is safe, you can remove the rest of the gear from the anchor (11,12)

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  And you are safe to get lowered (13)